Winter and wool have always been comfortable partners but now its not just any wool but merino wool that is wrapping up the high end of winter fashion.

Taylor Boutique

Over the past 10 years this ‘wonder fibre’ has increasingly made its mark in New Zealand and internationally.

Starting out mainly as underwear and active or athletic wear, its fine, sweat absorbent, odour resistant fibre is ideal for sports apparel and undergarment warmth. However, more lately designers have seen beyond the purely practical.

This season women will see merino featuring among corporate daywear right through to evening glam. But the road to style stardom has taken a little time.

Light, comfortable and known to be warm in winter yet cool in summer, the first fashionable merino garments appeared as long sleeved tees, polo jerseys and cardigans.

Designers also realised its suitability for infants and young children both as clothing an bedding.
 
Now they are seeing the value of merino’s soft, natural, long-lasting and thermal qualities for a much wider, fashion market.

Merino’s versatility has not been lost on key players such Vicki Taylor from Taylor Boutique who actually started using merino back in 1999 when she opened her Auckland store.

“Everyone thought we were crazy but 12 years on and we’re still using it and using it to create fabulous apparel offering all the well known attributes of merino as well as designer style.”

Designer, Ara A’Court and patternmaker, Miggs McTaylor from Petone-based label Reign, have also discovered a passion for merino, and put it on the radar as an edgy, high fashion product.

“Merino is highly functional but can also be incredibly attractive when cut well,” says Ara. “It has a great drape and we’ve really experimented over the last few years, using merino knit for everything from 3/4 length skirts with metres of draped merino in the hem, to coats, bodices and dresses.

“We like the fact that we don’t have to compromise on comfort and warmth to create garments that are interesting and beautiful. Using merino gives us that flexibility.”

 As the merino industry has grown, so too have options for designers. There are now a good variety of weights from ultra-light to suiting. It even comes in different textures and patterns. Not only does it hold its shape and sustain its colour, it is available in a wide colour palette too.

While merino knit is a staple in the Reign (pictured left) design kit, it certainly isn’t the total story. The 2011 winter collection combines fine merinos with structured wools to present what Ara and Miggs believe are flattering and wearable styles.

“This year’s winter collection is inspired by Russian Romanticism. Ballets Russes, Cossacks, Imperialism and Folk costume have all been an influence” says Ara.

“We’ve brought this to life through gorgeous, easy-to-wear merino and wool dresses and skirts, paired with beautiful draped cardigans, military style cropped jackets and Cossack-inspired winter coats.

‘These are designs that can take you from a work environment to a more relaxed look. They are feminine without the frou-frou.”

Article by Helen Perry

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