The show at Sky city Theatre had many of the fashion crowd wondering how exactly the label were going to create the air of dark edges that is associated with their iconic brand. We needn’t have worried. The show opened to a blanket wrapped actress reading from a book while an old, grainy black & white movie played behind her. It was a step back into a raw Siberian winter, complete with great coats and ushankas. Silhouettes of models were seen against this backdrop long before you saw them and what they were wearing but it was a fast paced show with three models on stage at any one time. That might sound quite overwhelming but each of the models had plenty of time to grab our attention.

As expected in a Zambesi show, the palette remained pretty dark and sombre – the ubiquitous black, a lot of brown, some deep blues and smoky greys with shots of teal in knitwear, the occasional print, the merest hint of tartan and a shot of raspberry (more on that later). The fabrics ranged from fine & chunky wools, fur, heavy denim and floaty silks – this was a large collection and each piece was in itself beautiful, wearable, and could easily be worked into existing wardrobes. 

There are many “standouts” for me: the classic winter coat with oversized lapel, fastened with one button that I could see that remaining a staple piece for seasons, a trench in heavy brown denim, the asymmetrical hem & neckline of an ethereal silk black tunic, a slim-line tube dress, a pleated skirt with one side short & the other long and the “woven” felted wool over-dresses. All were pieces that the owner would love for years to come. My absolute favourite was a raspberry silk dress that moved with and flattered the wearer due to its clever construction.

Pleats figured prominently in skirts and dresses, across the back and down the sleeves of jackets.  The tailoring of this collection was fabulous; cropped jackets, waistcoats, slim pants and skirts, all were beautifully constructed. 

Zambesi’s menswear was lean and tailored in beautiful fine wools but came with some textural contrasts such as fur lapels, ‘50s style silk shirts complete with skinny ties, tuxedo pants and pleated detailing across the back of jackets. Double breasted suits that buttoned on one side only were particularly playful and the addition of a sporty ‘50s style baseball jacket was a cool twist to the menswear collection.

View the runway pics here

- Jackie O'Fee

Photography c/- Hilary Johnston

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