The Autumn/Winter ’10 collection, named ‘virtue’, drew inspiration from ‘the regiment and formality of the Victorian era with the pure sculptural qualities of flowers and insects.'

Well, in this instance the references scarcely mattered, virtually every garment and outfit was clever and covetable enough to stand alone.

She had me at the very first exquisite full length georgette cloak in silvery grey over a signature paneled fitted dress.  Amazing tights with oval loop cutaways (you will have to look at the pictures) featured throughout the upper body and were very pretty with fine ruffles at their tops.

The palette was strongly neutral – black, grey and ivory, and then moved into russet (a striking vertically pintucked and paneled dress) and a wonderful apricot – Cybèle has an amazing fresh eye for colour and she ain’t afraid to use it.

Striking prints, always a Cybèle signature, adorned the back of a garment here (a divine lily on a slate silk shift) and the arms of another here; a hanging multi-lily print was equally successful.

Cybèle is also at one with tailoring and if her black, zip fronted dress with half cowl back collar was hot, the short trench version was even hotter.

Oh and she can do knits too – the 7/8 cardigan/coat looked like you would thrash it, and the stretch silk/tulle dress was immaculately finished to achieve a real luxe look.

Shoes were similar to last winter’s fabulous numbers but a little more utilitarian (if you can call a virtually winged heel utilitarian).

“Precious jewellery” is a new addition to the collection and big lilies in silver and cast glass were certainly visually striking – we will have to see the finer pieces close up to appreciate their (inevitable) beauty.

Makeup by Amber d for M.A.C. was otherworldly and somehow insect-like – orange-y pink lips, with scarlet-y pink worn high and bold on the cheekbones.  As for the half slicked, half worked hair – fantastic for the runway but suggest you don’t try it at home.

Backstage post the show the beautiful young woman was her amazingly poised self, she said when she first saw the beautiful glowworm-y glittery backdrop in the darkened tent she knew it had all come together.

We say – start saving for Cybele’s winter collection NOW.  You’ll have to elbow aside the Fashion Editors to get to it though.

Reviewed by Julie Roulston of www.fashionz.co.nz

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